Exploring the provenance of a Byzantine excavated assemblage of textile and leather finds by the application of instrumental analysis

Abstract

Abstract Stereomicroscopy, Scanning Electron Microscopy-Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy (SEM–EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared spectroscopy with Attenuated Total Reflectance probe (FTIR-ATR), High Performance Liquid Chromatography with a Photodiode Array system (HPLC–PDA), X-ray Fluorescence spectroscopy (XRF), Zooarchaeology by Mass Spectrometry (ZooMS), and 14C dating were applied to an assemblage of textile and leather fragments that belong to the collection of the Byzantine & Christian Museum of Athens in Greece and lacked inventory information.The analyses applied, along with bibliographical research, yielded information on the materials, techniques and provenance of the find. The assemblage of finds consists of a gold thread embroidered silk satin, dyed with shellfish-purple; a gold strip-drawn wire embroidered silk tabby; a gold strip-drawn wire and red silk thread tapestry; a gold-thread embroidery on a tabby background; fragments of braided cord; and leather fragments. The material components could have been produced locally, in the area of the Byzantine Empire, though some of them indicate connections with India and/or China. The assemblage, dated between the mid AD 10th and mid eleventh century, was probably found in 1924 by Andreas Xygopoulos during the excavation of a tomb inside the church of Agia Sophia in Thessaloniki, Greece.

Keywords

• Byzantine textiles
• Silk fibres
• Gold threads
• Satin
• Shellfish purple
• Alizarin