Cosmetics (Aug 2022)

In Vitro and Ex Vivo Mechanistic Understanding and Clinical Evidence of a Novel Anti-Wrinkle Technology in Single-Arm, Monocentric, Open-Label Observational Studies

  • Vinay Bhardwaj,
  • Jin Namkoong,
  • Océane Tartar,
  • Isabel Diaz,
  • Junhong Mao,
  • Joanna Wu

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9040080
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 9, no. 4
p. 80

Abstract

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Skin aging is a biological process leading to visible skin alterations. The mechanism of action, clinical efficacy and tolerance of a novel anti-wrinkle technology were evaluated in two skin care products formulated for different skin types. Two single-arm monocentric, open-label observational clinical studies, which were 56 days long, evaluated a cream-gel (n = 30) and a cream (n = 33) on the face and neck. Morphometric analyses of five types of wrinkles were performed at 0, 7, 28 and 56 days. Structural changes in extracellular matrix (ECM) including collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid (HA) were visualized and quantified by histochemical imaging after daily treatment of skin explants for 6 days. Protein and gene expression related to barrier and hydration were analyzed using ELISA and qRT-PCR, respectively, in a reconstituted human skin model treated daily for 48 h. A decrease in wrinkle dimensions was found in the majority of parameters after 28 days of treatment. Collagen, elastin, HA, procollagen type I, hyaluronan synthases, HAS2 and HAS3 were all stimulated. Based on significant and consistent changes in our investigations, we conclude that the underlying mechanism of action of the novel anti-wrinkle technology could be the remodeling of dermal ECM, and both the test formulations were efficacious and well tolerated.

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