Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (Apr 2020)

Lidar Observations of the Swash Zone of a Low-Tide Terraced Tropical Beach under Variable Wave Conditions: The Nha Trang (Vietnam) COASTVAR Experiment

  • Luís Pedro Almeida,
  • Rafael Almar,
  • Chris Blenkinsopp,
  • Nadia Senechal,
  • Erwin Bergsma,
  • France Floc’h,
  • Charles Caulet,
  • Melanie Biausque,
  • Patrick Marchesiello,
  • Philippe Grandjean,
  • Jerome Ammann,
  • Rachid Benshila,
  • Duong Hai Thuan,
  • Paula Gomes da Silva,
  • Nguyen Trung Viet

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse8050302
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 8, no. 5
p. 302

Abstract

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A field experiment was conducted at a tropical microtidal intermediate sandy beach with a low tide terrace (Nha Trang, Vietnam) to investigate the short-term swash-zone hydrodynamics and morphodynamics under variable wave conditions. Continuous 2D Lidar scanner observations of wave height at the lower foreshore, subsequent run-up and swash-induced topographic changes were obtained. These data were complemented by detailed real-time kinematic GPS topographic surveys. Variable wave and tide conditions were experienced during the field experiment with relatively large swell waves (offshore significant wave height, Hs = 0.9 m to 1.3 m; peak wave period, Tp = 8 to 12 s) concomitant with spring tides at the beginning of the period, followed by mild wind waves (offshore Hs under 0.5 m and Tp 5 s) and neap tides. This resulted in the following morphological sequence: berm erosion followed by rapid neap berm reformation and beach recovery within a few days. New insights into the link between intra-tidal swash dynamics and daily beach profile evolution were found using the Lidar dataset. While waves directly cause morphology changes on a wave-by-wave basis, tidal levels were found to be a key factor in determining the morphological wave-effect (accretive or erosive) due to modulated interaction between surf and swash hydro-morphodynamics.

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