Headdress from a Female Burial of 14th Century in the Territory of Bolgar (a turban with goldwork and a knit veil)

Abstract

Results of scientific reconstruction of the archaeological materials of a young woman’s headdress from a burial in Bolgar dated 14th century are presented in the article. The burial was discovered inside the ruins of a mausoleum (dig 174) where certain burials deviate from the Muslim tradition. In the grave the researchers discovered the remains of silk fabrics fragments of the remaining complex of a headdress decorated with goldwork. The embroidery pattern covering the surface of the fabric has no counterparts in the monuments of medieval art. During the study of fabrics the researchers discovered a long veil knit with silk threads, which presumably represented a head cover. It was decorated with a fringe of gold threads in the shape of triangles. After the restoration of the items it became possible to reconstruct the appearance of the headdress worn in the fashion of a turban. Today the artifact is the only authentic element of Bolgar clothing included in the complex of young women’s ceremonial costume.

Keywords

• archaeology
• the Golden Horde
• silk fabrics
• reconstruction
• goldwork
• headdress
• knit veil
• ornament
• motifs
• turban
• knitted veil
• rapport
• “tree of life”
• flower bud