Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (Feb 2023)

Benefits of the Dermocosmetic Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions Adjunct to Topical Retinoids for Anti-Aging Benefits

  • Valpaços C,
  • Leclerc-Mercier S,
  • Lopes L,
  • Svoboda D,
  • Miranda D,
  • Correia P,
  • Junior J,
  • Fernandes E,
  • Francois-Newton V,
  • Mandary MB,
  • Gueniche A,
  • Tan J,
  • Kerob D

Journal volume & issue
Vol. Volume 16
pp. 375 – 385

Abstract

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Camila Valpaços,1 Stéphanie Leclerc-Mercier,2 Luana Lopes,1 Diego Svoboda,1 Daniele Miranda,1 Priscila Correia,3 José Junior,3 Erika Fernandes,1 Veronique Francois-Newton,4 Madiiha Bibi Mandary,4 Audrey Gueniche,2 Jerry Tan,5 Delphine Kerob6 1Centre International de Développement Pharmaceutique (Research Institute), Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; 2Vichy Laboratoires, Levallois-Perret, France; 3L’Oréal Brasil, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; 4Centre International de Développement Pharmaceutique (Research Institute), Phoenix, Mauritius; 5Western University, Department of Medicine and Windsor Clinical Research Inc, Windsor, ON, Canada; 6CAI, L’Oréal Paris, Paris, FranceCorrespondence: Camila Valpaços, Centre International de Développement Pharmaceutique (Research Institute), Rua dos Inválidos, 212, 401/402, Lapa, Rio de Janeiro, 20231-048, Brazil, Tel +55 21 2221-6180, Email [email protected]: Tretinoin is a topical gold standard for photoaging treatment. However, patient adherence can be impaired by local tolerability in the first 1– 2 weeks of treatment. Mineral 89 Probiotic Fractions® (M89PF) containing Vichy volcanic mineralizing water®, probiotic fractions, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and tocopherol was developed to fulfill the need for adjunctive products that can reinforce skin barrier and manage retinoid induced irritation.Patients and Methods: The study included 38 women, aged 44– 60 years, phototype II–VI, applying 0.025% tretinoin gel once nightly for 84 days. For 28 days, one hemi face was treated with M89PF and sunscreen SPF 50+ while other hemi face received sunscreen only. Then, M89PF application was changed to full face. Evaluations were performed at days 0, 7, 28 and 84. Erythema, dryness, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were assessed by a dermatologist. Tolerability was evaluated through self-assessment questionnaire. Skin hydration levels, inflammatory and oxidative stress biomarkers were analyzed by immunological assay: Interleukin(IL)-8, IL1-alpha, IL1-Receptor Antagonist (IL-1Ra), Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), Catalase and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD).Results: Hemiface analysis showed that erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance, pore appearance, hydration, tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging sensations were improved (p< 0.05) on the M89PF side. At full face analysis on D84, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance were improved compared to D0 (p< 0.001). Tightness, dryness, burning, itching and stinging were reduced when compared to D7 (p< 0.05). Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and Skindex 16 showed improvement in quality of life (p< 0.05). IL-1RA increased at D28 (p=0.003) and PGE2 decreased at D28 and D84 compared to D0 (p< 0.01).Conclusion: M89PF reduced retinoid induced irritation with a good tolerability profile and, used as an adjunct to topical tretinoin, significantly improved skin hydration, erythema, fine lines, skin tone, radiance and pore appearance.Keywords: skin barrier, irritation, Vichy volcanic mineralizing water®, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, tocopherol

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