Cosmetics (Mar 2021)

In Vitro Cultured <i>Melissa officinalis</i> Cells as Effective Ingredient to Protect Skin against Oxidative Stress, Blue Light, and Infrared Irradiations Damages

  • Giovanna Pressi,
  • Oriana Bertaiola,
  • Chiara Guarnerio,
  • Elisa Barbieri,
  • Flavia Guzzo,
  • Caroline Durand,
  • Laurent Peno-Mazzarino,
  • Veronica Cocetta,
  • Isabella Giacomini,
  • Alessandra Semenzato

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8010023
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 8, no. 1
p. 23

Abstract

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Skin is being increasingly exposed to artificial blue light due to the extensive use of electronic devices, which can induce cell oxidative stress, causing signs of early photo aging. The Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new standardized cosmetic ingredient obtained by an in vitro plant cell culture with a high content of rosmarinic acid. In this study, we examine the activity of the Melissa officinalis phytocomplex to protect skin against blue light and infrared damages, evaluating the ROS (Radical Oxygen Species) level in keratinocyte cell line from human skin (HaCaT) and Nrf2 (Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), elastin, and MMP1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase 1) immunostaining in living human skin explants ex vivo. This phytocomplex demonstrates antioxidant activity by reducing ROS production and thus the oxidant damage of the skin caused by UV and blue light exposure. In addition, it inhibits blue light-induced Nrf2 transcriptional activity, IR-induced elastin alteration, and IR-induced MMP-1 release. This Melissa officinalis phytocomplex is a new innovative active ingredient for cosmetic products that is able to protect skin against light and screen exposure damages and oxidative stress.

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