Etnoantropološki Problemi (Mar 2016)
Jovanka Broz and fashion: the collection of the first lady
Abstract
The paper showcases a part of the collection of the first lady of SFRY, Jovanka Broz, captured in photographs taken between 1953 and 1980. The issue of the lack of primary sources is considered – the lack of objects and explicit attitudes of the first lady herself, with the goal of offering a methodological approach through which this deficiency could be overcome. The paper uses the method of chronological tracking of political events, trends in the world of fashion and events in the fashion industry, as well as statements by participants and witnesses of certain events. Through comparison of these three aspects, we indirectly arrive at a view of the relationship of Jovanka Broz to clothing and fashion, as well as to a view of the key influences of the first lady’s collection on the fashion choices of the political elite and the fashion industry of SFR Yugoslavia. Jovanka Broz’s public appearance changed over time, from a careful selection of photographs without personal comment, through the recording of statements on formal occasions, to giving interviews to chosen journalists on specific topics – these changes are noted in the paper. It can be concluded that the fashion choices of Jovanka Broz were, first and foremost, aligned with the protocols demanded by international diplomacy, as well as that Jovanka Broz herself approached this demands with the utmost diligence, as well as personal attitude.