Ethnic Tuvans of Mongolia: Distinct Features of Traditional Clothing

Abstract

Introduction. The article summarizes some outcomes of the November 2022 expedition to Bayan-Ölgii (Tsengel) and Khovd Provinces of Mongolia for the study of traditional clothing worn by ethnic Tuvans. Goals. The paper attempts a review of distinct features inherent to garments of Mongolia’s Tuvans, identifies similarities and differences therein as compared to corresponding patterns of the mother ethnos — Tuvan people (Tyva ulus) of the Tyva Republic (Russian Federation). The work analyzes the reasons which resulted in that Tuvans of Mongolia were separated from the mother ethnos (Tuvans of Russia), examines various types of their traditional clothing, and differences in names of the latter’s elements. The Expedition has identified some common backgrounds of clothing patterns adopted by Tuvans of both Mongolia and Russia. The latter are primarily manifested in women’s agai tonu and sleeveless shegedek, bürgüül and toorchak headgears (Mongolia’s Tuvans), women’s ibchi-ton, sleeveless shegedek, dovurzak and büdeelge headgears (Russian Tuvans). The fact ethnic Tuvans have long lived next to Mongols has resulted in the former’s mongolization — both in terms of language and culture. Those are garment names that differ most of all. However, the article introduces a decent scholarly insight into the understudied topic of Tuvan clothing in Mongolia. It also publishes data collected from tailors with expertise in clothing of Khovd and Bayan-Ölgii Tuvans, and examines available items for differences and similarities in traditional Tuvan costumes of Russia and Mongolia.

Keywords

• ethnic tuvans of mongolia
• traditional clothing
• headgear
• shoulder clothing
• sleeveless coat
• upper garments
• agai ton
• shegedek
• lapshak
• toorchak
• leather footwear