Effects of Wave Height, Period and Sea Level on Barred Beach Profile Evolution: Revisiting the Roller Slope in a Beach Morphodynamic Model

Abstract

Sandbars are commonly observed on sandy coasts, and they can prevent erosion on the beach face. Better prediction of sandbar evolution is necessary for coastal management and beach nourishment. In this study, a process-based morphodynamic model is used to reproduce the barred beach profile evolution in the Duck94 field experiments. The importance of the wave roller slope parameter in the model is revisited. Six idealized numerical experiments are set to investigate the effect of wave heights, wave periods and sea levels on sandbar migrations. By implementing two recent cross-shore varying roller slope formulas, the models achieved fair-to-good performances. It was found that the variations of sandbar morphological evolution are mainly controlled by the cross-shore varying roller slope. An increase in the wave height or a decrease in the wave period would lead to a more rapid and further-offshore migration of the sandbar. When the sea level variations are much smaller than the water depth over the sandbar, the effect of sea level changes on the sandbar migration is negligible, though a lower sea level would cause more erosion on the beach face.

Keywords

• beach profile evolution
• sandbar
• cross-shore sediment transport