Numerical Modeling of Nearshore Wave Transformation and Breaking Processes in the Yellow River Delta with FUNWAVE-TVD Wave Model

Abstract

The presence of wave coherence, which contributes to the inhomogeneity of wave characteristics and significantly affects wave processes over nearshore regions of the Yellow River Delta (YRD), was simulated and analyzed in this study. A phase-resolving Boussinesq-type wave model, FUNWAVE-TVD, was used to simulate waves with desirable coherency effects. Bathymetry and topography data were obtained from the Chinese nautical chart and E.U. Copernicus Marine Service Information. After the model configuration, spatial distributions of the root mean square and significant wave heights, and the maximum cross-shore current velocity and vorticity over the domain with respect to different degrees of wave coherence and energy spectrum discretization were investigated. The results indicate that the complexity of the spatial distribution and magnitude of longshore variations in wave statistics are proportional to the degree of coherence. Waves with higher coherency exhibit more complex variabilities and stronger fluctuations along the longshore direction. The influence of morphological changes on wave height in the YRD was discernible by comparing the results with and without coherency effects. The cross-shore current velocity decreased as the waves moved toward the surf zone, while the vorticity accelerated, indicating a higher shear wave magnitude. The simulated wave dissipates more than 60% (80%) of its energy when it reaches water depths of less than 5 m (2 m) and completely dissipates when it breaks at the shore.

Keywords

• numerical modeling
• nearshore
• wave breaking
• Yellow River Delta
• FUNWAVE-TVD wave model