Oilseeds and fats, crops and lipids (Jul 2017)

Lipases: particularly effective biocatalysts for cosmetic active ingredients

  • Yvergnaux Florent

DOI
https://doi.org/10.1051/ocl/2017013
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 24, no. 4
p. D408

Abstract

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Enzymes are the tools of choice in the on-going quest for non-pollutant processes to discover molecules for use in skin products. Amongst these biocatalysts, lipases offer considerable potential in terms of ingredient development and are of interest in skin dermocosmetic formulations possessing sensory or biological activities. Lipases have been studied for around thirty years and, in most cases, these enzymes function under what are deemed to be mild conditions, displaying remarkable efficacy particularly in terms of selectivity. This particularly effective strategy will be illustrated through typical synthesis, demonstrating how ester or amide active ingredients are obtained.

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