Scientia Marina (Dec 2001)

Evolution of longshore beach contour lines determined by E.O.F. method

  • Juan J. Muñoz-Pérez,
  • Raúl Medina,
  • Begoña Tejedor

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3989/scimar.2001.65n4393
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 65, no. 4
pp. 393 – 402

Abstract

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Detailed topo-bathymetric levellings were performed biannually for four years at Victoria Beach (Cadiz, Spain) after a beach renourishment carried out in Spring 1991. The subsequent time series were analysed using the Empirical Orthogonal Functions (EOF) method. The evolution of some characteristic longshore contour lines, such as the Highest High Water Level and the Lowest Low Water Level, is studied. The mean coastal line is related to the first spatial EOF mode. Furthermore, an objective criterion for distinguishing between a generalised recession and cyclic accretion-erosion processes due to seasonal sea-swell changes is described, and a uniformly clockwise turn of the shoreline to minimise longshore transport is identified.

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