Anthropometric Parameters and Body Composition in Elite Lead Climbers and Boulderers—A Retrospective Study

Abstract

Based on previous research studies and systematic reviews, success in sport climbing seems to be determined by variables such as strength, power, or endurance. However, besides strength-endurance parameters, several other factors may influence the performance of sports climbing. Moreover, there is a lack of research assessing differences in body composition and anthropometric parameters between lead climbing and bouldering—the two most common sport climbing subdisciplines. The presented research analyzed the connection between body mass, body height, body mass index, and the best result in sport climbing among male lead climbers and boulderers. Additionally, we investigated differences in starting climbing age and climbing experience in both climbing subdisciplines. We analyzed 422 male sport climbers’ profiles in two categories: “Route Ranking: Top-10 climbs last 12 months” for lead climbers and “Boulder Ranking: Top-10 climbs last 12 months” for boulderers based on the 8a.nu world ranking website. The results showed that the “Elite” and “Higher Elite” lead climbers had lower body mass and lower body height. These differences were also observed between “Elite” and “Higher Elite” lead climbers. The “Higher Elite” group started climbing at a younger age and had a more extended period to achieve the most challenging route than “Elite” climbers in both subdisciplines. Our results suggest that lower body mass and lower body height can be key factors in lead climbing performance.

Keywords

• sport climbing
• lead climbing
• bouldering
• body composition
• anthropometry