Polyphenol-Rich Extracts Obtained from Winemaking Waste Streams as Natural Ingredients with Cosmeceutical Potential
Melanie S. Matos,
Rut Romero-Díez,
Ana Álvarez,
M. R. Bronze,
Soraya Rodríguez-Rojo,
Rafael B. Mato,
M. J. Cocero,
Ana A. Matias
Affiliations
Melanie S. Matos
Nutraceuticals & Bioactives Process Technology Group, Instituto de Biologia Experimental e Tecnológica (iBET), Av. República, Qta. Do Marquês, Estação Agronómica Nacional, Edifício iBET/ITQB, 2780-157 Oeiras, Portugal
Rut Romero-Díez
BioEcoUVa, Research Institute on Bioeconomy, High Pressure Processes Group, Department of Chemical Engineering and Environmental Technology, School of Engineering, University of Valladolid (UVa), Sede Mergelina Valladolid, 47011 Castilla y León, Spain
Ana Álvarez
BioEcoUVa, Research Institute on Bioeconomy, High Pressure Processes Group, Department of Chemical Engineering and Environmental Technology, School of Engineering, University of Valladolid (UVa), Sede Mergelina Valladolid, 47011 Castilla y León, Spain
M. R. Bronze
Nutraceuticals & Bioactives Process Technology Group, Instituto de Biologia Experimental e Tecnológica (iBET), Av. República, Qta. Do Marquês, Estação Agronómica Nacional, Edifício iBET/ITQB, 2780-157 Oeiras, Portugal
Soraya Rodríguez-Rojo
BioEcoUVa, Research Institute on Bioeconomy, High Pressure Processes Group, Department of Chemical Engineering and Environmental Technology, School of Engineering, University of Valladolid (UVa), Sede Mergelina Valladolid, 47011 Castilla y León, Spain
Rafael B. Mato
BioEcoUVa, Research Institute on Bioeconomy, High Pressure Processes Group, Department of Chemical Engineering and Environmental Technology, School of Engineering, University of Valladolid (UVa), Sede Mergelina Valladolid, 47011 Castilla y León, Spain
M. J. Cocero
BioEcoUVa, Research Institute on Bioeconomy, High Pressure Processes Group, Department of Chemical Engineering and Environmental Technology, School of Engineering, University of Valladolid (UVa), Sede Mergelina Valladolid, 47011 Castilla y León, Spain
Ana A. Matias
Nutraceuticals & Bioactives Process Technology Group, Instituto de Biologia Experimental e Tecnológica (iBET), Av. República, Qta. Do Marquês, Estação Agronómica Nacional, Edifício iBET/ITQB, 2780-157 Oeiras, Portugal
Phenolics present in grapes have been explored as cosmeceutical principles, due to their antioxidant activity and ability to inhibit enzymes relevant for skin ageing. The winemaking process generates large amounts of waste, and the recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their further incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity for wine producers and may contribute to a sustainable development of the sector. The extracts obtained from grape marc and wine lees, using solid−liquid (SL) extraction with and without microwave (MW) pretreatment of the raw material, were characterized in terms of antioxidant activity through chemical (ORAC/HOSC/HORAC) and cell-based (keratinocytes—HaCaT; fibroblasts—HFF) assays. Furthermore, their inhibitory capacity towards specific enzymes involved in skin ageing (elastase; MMP-1; tyrosinase) was evaluated. The total phenolic and anthocyanin contents were determined by colorimetric assays, and HPLC−DAD−MS/MS was performed to identify the main compounds. The MW pretreatment prior to conventional SL extraction led to overall better outcomes. The red wine lees extracts presented the highest phenolic content (3 to 6-fold higher than grape marc extracts) and exhibited the highest antioxidant capacity, being also the most effective inhibitors of elastase, MMP-1 and tyrosinase. The results support that winemaking waste streams are valuable sources of natural ingredients with the potential for cosmeceutical applications.