Design of a Naturally Dyed and Waterproof Biotechnological Leather from Reconstituted Cellulose

Abstract

Consumerism in fashion involves the excessive consumption of garments in modern capitalist societies due to the expansion of globalisation, especially at the beginning of the 21st Century. The involvement of new designers in the garment industry has assisted in creating a desire for new trends. However, the fast pace of transitions between collections has made fashion increasingly frivolous and capable of generating considerable interest in new products, accompanied by an increase in the discarding of fabrics. Thus, studies have been conducted on developing sustainable textile materials for use in the fashion industry. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the potential of a vegan leather produced with a dyed, waterproof biopolymer made of reconstituted bacterial cellulose (BC). The dying process involved using plant-based natural dyes extracted from Allium cepa L., Punica granatum, and Eucalyptus globulus L. The BC films were then shredded and reconstituted to produce uniform surfaces with a constant thickness of 0.10 cm throughout the entire area. The films were waterproofed using the essential oil from Melaleuca alternifolia and wax from Copernicia prunifera. The characteristics of the biotechnological vegan leather were analysed using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), flexibility and mechanical tests, as well as the determination of the water contact angle (°) and sorption index (s). The results confirmed that the biomaterial has high tensile strength (maximum: 247.21 ± 16.52 N) and high flexibility; it can be folded more than 100 times at the same point without breaking or cracking. The water contact angle was 83.96°, indicating a small water interaction on the biotextile. The results of the present study demonstrate the potential of BC for the development of novel, durable, vegan, waterproof fashion products.

Keywords

• fashion
• design
• sustainable clothing
• bacterial cellulose