Studii si Cercetari de Istoria Artei : Teatru, Muzică, Cinematografie (Dec 2018)
Maeștrii de costume la Teatrul Național din București, de la inaugurare până în pragul Marii Uniri (1852–1918)
Abstract
The paper presents the stages of creating the wardrobe of the National Theater in Bucharest from inauguration until 1918. In the context of a visible occidentalization, the theatre absorbs from abroad successful practices and works with master tailors able to bring the national scene on the map of the great European theatres. Theatre makers rely on the visibility and importance of the costumes, which is the reason why they do not hesitate to ask for the help of the specialised tailoring houses in Italy, France or Berlin. Thus, tailor Giacomo Galli and costume curator Gioachino Felice lay the foundation of the first tailoring workshop designed to create, repair and transform all the costumes necessary for materializing the directorial concept. The work started by Giacomo Galli (1860–1878) is continued by A.I. Rallet (1878–1883), Ilie Bergher (1883–1905), Costache Hristescu (1905–1908), Grigore Popovici (1909–1911) and Gheorghe Nicolau (1908–1909/1911–1924). On a fruitful evolutionary path, the stage space is enriched by the contribution of theatrical costume companies Chiappa and Rancati in Milano, the Enrico Biati fabric company, whose constant presence has been recorded since 1878, Luigi Capuzzo in Venice or Hugo Baruch & Cie in Berlin.
