The role of local retinoids in eliminating signs of skin aging

Abstract

Skin aging is a complex process involving both internal (chronological aging) and external (biological aging) factors. Slowing down the proliferative and immune processes in the epidermis, reducing the activity of fibroblasts and vascularization of the dermis during chronological aging lead to thinning, dryness, hypersensitivity, vulnerability and superficial wrinkles. Exposure to ultraviolet rays, pollutants, climate, and thermal factors cause keratinocyte disorganization, enhanced melanogenesis, collagen dystrophy, solar elastosis, and disorder of microcirculation. The main signs of external skin aging are deep wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation, telangiectasia, skin neoplasms. Among the local anti-aging agents, retinoids occupy a leading place, as they eliminate the main signs of skin aging. Of the entire group of retinoids, retinoic acids are the most active. However, the possibility of skin irritation limits their use. Therapeutic and cosmetic products with retinol esters (retinol palmitate) have a minimal irritating effect and can be used both for the prevention of skin aging and the elimination of its signs. Oral use of isotretinoin as an anti-aging agent is undesirable due to the many side effects and contraindications.

Keywords

• skin aging
• retinoids
• tretinoin
• isotretinoin
• retinol