A Computation Model for Coast Wave Motions with Multiple Breakings

Abstract

This paper presents a computational model for coast wave motions with multiple wave breakings. In the Boussinesq model, the wave breaking judgment method is combined with the wave recovery judgment condition, which stops the wave breaking process when triggered. The energy dissipation of wave breaking is corrected, and the dissipation of wave energy is maintained at about 10% during the wave recovery stage, so that the dissipation caused by the residual turbulent motion of wave breaking and the increase in wave height caused by the shallowing of waves due to the water bottom slope are offset. By comparing the calculation results with the experimental results, it is proved that this model can be used to calculate multiple wave breakings. This model is applied to discuss the influence of wave incident angle and wave period on wave height and longshore current and gives the distribution characteristics of wave height and longshore current under multiple wave breakings.

Keywords

• wave breaking
• Boussinesq model
• wave recovery
• longshore current
• gentle planar topography