Biomechanical Analysis of Elite Ice-Climbing Performance

Abstract

Competitive ice climbing involves ascending ice and natural rock/manmade features using specialized equipment. Despite its growing popularity, there is limited knowledge regarding the relationship between ice climbers’ biomechanics and performance. The purpose of this study was to analyze spatiotemporal variables and upper-extremity joint kinematics during an elite lead ice-climbing competition. A total of 24 (16 male, 8 female) competitors participated. Video data was recorded during the ice climbing competition, and biomechanical analysis software was used to measure kinematic variables (shoulder and elbow angles) and spatiotemporal (time climbing/resting and number of moves/rests) throughout a section of the competition route. Independent t-tests examined differences between the top and bottom 50% of competitors, and correlations assessed the strength of the relationship between the measured variables and competition rank. We found a strong correlation between elbow and shoulder angles at weight bearing on the ice tool, indicating that ice climbers rely on more extended arm positions, which may decrease muscle fatigue, maintain optimal muscle fiber lengths, and keep the trunk close to the wall with lower contact forces. Additionally, we found that higher-performing ice climbers moved faster with fewer moves, which is likely due to their ability to identify specific holds as affordances to guide their movement.

Keywords

• ice climb
• performance
• biomechanics