Reconstruction of Nearshore Surface Gravity Wave Heights From Distributed Acoustic Sensing Data

Abstract

Abstract Distributed Acoustic Sensing (DAS) is a photonics technology converting seafloor telecommunications and optical fiber cables into dense arrays of strain sensors, allowing to monitor various oceanic physical processes. Yet, several applications are hindered by the limited knowledge of the transfer function between geophysical variables and DAS measurements. This study investigates the quantitative relationship between surface gravity DAS‐recorded wave‐generated strain signals along the seafloor and the pressure at a colocated sensor. A remarkable linear correlation is found over various sea conditions allowing us to reliably determine significant wave heights from DAS data. Utilizing linear wave potential theory, we derive an analytical transfer function linking cable deformation and wave kinematic parameters. This transfer function provides a first quantification of the effects related to surface gravity waves and fiber responses. Our results validate DAS's potential for real‐time reconstruction of the surface gravity wave spectrum over extended coastal areas. It also enables the estimation of waves hydraulic parameters at depth without the need from offshore deployments.

Keywords

• distributed acoustic sensing (DAS)
• pressure sensor
• wave‐generated strain signals
• coastal waves
• linear theory
• transfer function