A Cocktail-Based Formula for the Design of Nanosized Cosmeceuticals as Skincare and Anti-Age Products
Ines Castangia,
Federica Fulgheri,
Matteo Perra,
Gianluigi Bacchetta,
Laura Fancello,
Francesco Corrias,
Iris Usach,
Josè Esteban Peris,
Maria Letizia Manca,
Maria Manconi
Affiliations
Ines Castangia
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Federica Fulgheri
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Matteo Perra
Biomedical and Tissue Engineering Laboratory, Fundación de Investigación Hospital General Universitario, 46022 Valencia, Spain
Gianluigi Bacchetta
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Laura Fancello
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Francesco Corrias
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Iris Usach
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology and Parasitology, University of Valencia, Burjassot, 46100 Valencia, Spain
Josè Esteban Peris
Department of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Technology and Parasitology, University of Valencia, Burjassot, 46100 Valencia, Spain
Maria Letizia Manca
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Maria Manconi
Department of Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Cagliari, University Campus, S.P. Monserrato-Sestu Km 0.700, 09042 Monserrato, Cagliari, Italy
Nasco and Bovale grape pomace extracts, alone or in association, were loaded in nanoemulsions tailored for cosmetic application, using Kolliphor®RH40 (kolliphor) as the synthetic surfactant, Olivem®1000 (olivem) as the natural one, and lecithin as the cosurfactant. Pink transparent or milky dispersions, as a function of the used extract and surfactant, were obtained to be used as cosmeceutical serum or milk. The sizes of the nanoemulsion droplets were small (≈77 nm with kolliphor and ≈141 nm with olivem), homogenously dispersed (~0.24 with kolliphor and ~0.16 with olivem), highly negatively charged (≈−43 mV irrespective of the used surfactant) and their stability either on storage or under stressing conditions was affected by the used extract and surfactant. Formulations protected the extracts from the degradation caused by UV exposition, were biocompatible against keratinocytes, protected them against oxidative damages induced using hydrogen peroxide and inhibited the release of nitrite induced in macrophages using the lipopolysaccharide inflammatory stimulus. The overall results underlined the key role played by the composition of the formula to achieve a suitable cosmeceutical for skin care but even for the prevention of premature aging and chronic damages caused by the stressing conditions.
