Study on the phenomenon of Shoaling-Breaking in Water Wave Equation Formulated Using Weighted Total Acceleration Equation

Abstract

This research is the continuation of previous research conducted by the author, where in this research a wave equation is developed using total acceleration equation for a function f (x, z, t) and formulated using a complete velocity potential. Based on the wave equation, shoaling-breaking model is developed and the breaker height produced by the model is examined. There is a conformity between breaker height a model and breaker height produced by the previous research.

Keywords

• complete potential velocity
• weighted total acceleration
• breaker height