Dynamics and Transformation of Sea Surface Gravity Waves at the Shelf of Decreasing Depth

Abstract

This paper reviews the results of the processing of synchronized data on hydrosphere pressure variations and the Earth’s crust deformation in the microseismic range (5–15 s), obtained over the course of numerous experiments, using a coastal laser strainmeter and laser meters of hydrosphere pressure variations installed in various points of the Sea of Japan shelf. Interpreting the results, we have discovered new regularities in the dynamics of surface progressive gravity waves, and their transformation into primary microseisms, when waves move at the shelf of decreasing depth. For example, we found non-isochronous behavior of progressive waves, which manifests itself in a decrease in the periods of gravity waves due to the transformation of a part of their energy into the energy of primary microseisms. Furthermore, when processing the synchronous fragments of the records, made by laser strainmeters and laser meters of hydrosphere pressure variations, we identified approximate zones of the most effective transformation of the energy of gravity progressive waves into the energy of primary microseisms, which start from the depth of less than a half-wavelength and stretch to the surf zone.

Keywords

• wind waves
• progressive waves
• standing waves
• primary microseisms
• secondary microseisms
• wave dynamics