Hydrodynamic Measurements of Propagating Waves at Different Nearshore Depths in Hujeong Beach, Korea

Abstract

This paper reports the results of hydrodynamic measurements at two different water depths to observe wave properties in the course of wave propagation, especially during storm periods, in Hujeong Beach, Korea. In addition to hydrodynamic measurements, video monitoring data and satellite images from Sentinel-II were employed to compare the temporal changes in shoreline positions and shallow water bathymetry during the storms. Through combination of a variety of observational data sets, the accuracy of analysis could be enhanced by preventing possible misinterpretation. Two significant storms were observed from two experiments conducted at different times and locations of the beach. The hydrodynamic conditions were similar in both of the periods in terms of wave and current conditions as well as wave nonlinearity such as skewness. However, the response of shoreline during the two storms was the opposite because it was eroded during the first storm but advanced during the second storm. This suggests that other controlling factors such as storm duration need to be investigated to support the analysis of cross-shore sediment transport and consequent shoreline evolution for future studies.

Keywords

• wave propagation
• coastal erosion
• wave skewness
• wave asymmetry
• video monitoring
• satellite images