Mamluks and the Golden Horde Through the Prism of Textile Found at Uvek Settlement in 2021

Abstract

The subject of the study is the diplomatic relations of the Mamluk sultans with the Golden Horde khans in the light of the custom of preparing embassy gifts; the purpose of the study is the cultural and chronological attribution of a new textile find and the establishment of the historical context of its existence; conclusion: based on a reconstruction of the dress from the burial at Uvek settlement, which corresponds to Mongolian robes, and the determination of the origin of the striped silk woven in the workshops of Mamluk Egypt, it is logical to assume that embassy gifts were made in accordance with the tastes and traditions of the representatives of foreign embassies, whereas the lack of interest of the Mongols in striped fabrics should most likely be sought at the anthological level of their worldview.

Keywords

• mamluks
• golden horde
• archaeological textile
• embassy gifts
• basic pattern weaving on linen background
• seal prints on textile