Journal of Marine Science and Engineering (Jun 2024)

The Influence of Beachrock Outcrop on Spatial Variability in Beach Morphology

  • Junhui Xu,
  • Yanhong Wang,
  • Peidong Lu

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12060945
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 12, no. 6
p. 945

Abstract

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Beachrock is a type of coastal carbonate sedimentary rock developed in the sandy beach intertidal zone, widely distributed along the beach front, and the loss of beach sediment is the main cause of beachrock exposure. Based on the analysis of measured data of different exposure forms of beachrocks in profiles, this paper analyzes the main features and influences of non-dynamic factors, such as the exposure position and morphology, of beachrocks on the dynamic geomorphic processes of beaches. Studies have shown that (1) changes between beach energy dissipation bodies are significant features of coastal geomorphic processes under the influence of beachrocks. The first spatial mode of EOF analysis shows that the erosion position of beach-rock-exposed profiles is mainly concentrated in the protected and real sections of beachrock, and the first temporal mode indicates that the exposure of beachrock results in a lagged response of its profile to dynamic environmental changes. (2) The differences in the exposure forms of beachrocks determine the sand-holding space of the beach, and the differences in the lateral exposure positions of beachrocks determine the main areas where erosion occurs on the profile. Meanwhile, the geomorphic processes of their profiles show different degrees of feedback, and such geomorphic phenomena can serve as reference indicators for the stage-wise evolution process influenced by beachrocks.

Keywords