Cosmetics (Dec 2022)

Rosmarinic Acid Multifunctional Sunscreen: Comet Assay and In Vivo Establishment of Cutaneous Attributes

  • Thalita Marcílio Cândido,
  • Maíra Bueno Ariede,
  • Claudinéia Aparecida Sales de Oliveira Pinto,
  • Fabiana Vieira Lima,
  • Wagner Vidal Magalhães,
  • Natália Mencacci Esteves Pedro,
  • Giovana Padovani,
  • Bianca da Silva Sufi,
  • Patrícia Rijo,
  • Maria Valéria Robles Velasco,
  • Catarina Rosado,
  • André Rolim Baby

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics9060141
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 9, no. 6
p. 141

Abstract

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The skin acts as a protective barrier, guarding the body against microorganisms, chemicals, and several environmental factors. Accordingly, this all-important organ must be kept healthy to maintain its optimal functionality. One approach to maintain skin health is the application of multifunction bioactive sunscreens containing antioxidant molecule(s). Rosmarinic acid (RA), a phenolic compound, is known for its antioxidant activity. Herein, the safety and efficacy of a multifunction prototype sunscreen were investigated, aiming to evaluate the performance of this polyphenol with two known and widely used UV filters (bemotrizinol and octyl p-methoxycinnamate). Samples protected the DNA fragmentation compared to UV control, by the comet assay, and showed good skin compatibility in subjects. Formulations F1 and F3 were able to increase skin hydration, and, possibly, the RA interfered with this attribute. An increase in transepidermal water loss was observed for formulations F1, F2, and F4, which may be related to the vehicle, containing the RA or not. No decreases were observed in the inflammatory reaction caused by the ethyl nicotinate with any of the samples. As a perspective, we suggest trials with a greater number of subjects or protocol modifications. Altering the vehicle qualitative and quantitative composition is also a pertinent perspective.

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