Remote Sensing (Dec 2024)
Quantification of Nearshore Sandbar Seasonal Evolution Based on Drone Pseudo-Bathymetry Time-Lapse Data
Abstract
Nearshore sandbars are dynamic features that characterize shallow morphobathymetry and vary over a wide range of geometries and temporal lifespans. Nearshore sandbars influence beach geometry by altering the energy of incoming waves; thus, monitoring the evolution of sandbars is a fundamental approach in effective coastal planning. Due to several natural and technical limitations related to shallow seafloor mapping, there is a significant gap in the availability of high-resolution, shallow bathymetric data for monitoring the dynamic behaviour of nearshore sandbars effectively. This study introduces a novel image-processing technique that produces time series of pseudo-bathymetric data by utilizing multi-temporal (monthly) drone imagery, and it provides an assessment of local morphodynamics at a sandy beach in the southeast Mediterranean. The technique is called standardized-ratio bathymetric index (SRBI), and it transforms natural-colour drone imagery to pseudo-bathymetric data by applying an empirical formula used for satellite-derived bathymetry. This technique correlates well with laser altimetry depth measurements; however, it does not require in situ depth data for implementation. The resulting pseudo-bathymetric data allows for extracting cross-shore profiles and delineating the sandbar crest with 4 m horizontal accuracy. Stacking of temporal profiles allowed for the quantification of the sandbar’s crest and trough changes at different alongshore sections. The main findings suggest that the nearshore crescentic sandbar at Episkopi Beach (north Crete) shows strong seasonality regarding net offshore migration that is promoted by enhanced wave action during winter months. In addition, the crescentic sandbar is susceptible to morphology arrestment during prolonged weeks of low wave action. The average migration rate during winter is 10 m.month−1, with some sections exhibiting a maximum of 60 m.month−1. This study (a) offers a novel remote-sensing approach, suitable for nearshore seafloor monitoring with low computational complexity, (b) reveals sandbar geometry and temporal change in superior detail compared to other observational methods, and (c) advances knowledge about nearshore sandbar monitoring in the Mediterranean region.
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