FINISHING TECHNOLOGIES FOR NATURAL LEATHER USED IN MODERN GARMENTS

Abstract

The paper presents modern finishing technologies using various auxiliaries in order to obtain semi-processed leather (nappa) for garments, with advanced esthetic and functional properties. Retanning auxiliaries based on acrylic polymers, tanning resins, synthetic tanning agents and fatliquoring and dyeing auxiliaries were used, providing leather with characteristics such as: drumming fastness, uniform dyeing, softness, low weight, dimensional stability, water vapour permeability. Finishing is done using disperse systems containing as auxiliaries: pigments, binders, natural and synthetic waxes, preservatives, plasticizers, thickeners, fillers, odorizers, penetrating agents, solvents. Essential oils, known for their particular scent and therapeutic qualities, are highly concentrated in biologically active compounds with different properties. These essential oils can be used to provide leather with fragrance. The composition of essential oils were analyzed by gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry - GC-MS. The framework dry finishing technology was developed for brown nappa sheep for clothing. The most powerful and persistent fragrance effect, determined by sensory test, is that of product containing a mixture of 60% essential oils. New shapes and lines were promoted in the design of leather garments to improve the quality of fashion design and modernize production of garments and leather goods. The developed technologies gives garment leather producers the possibility to diversify their product range and increasing quality, strengthening market confidence in the product.

Keywords

• sheepskins
• essential oils
• polyurethane binders
• fragrance
• quality
• environmental protection