Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (Feb 2024)
Cosmetic Considerations in Dark-Skinned Patients
Abstract
Sarawin Harnchoowong,1 Vasanop Vachiramon,2 Natthachat Jurairattanaporn2 1Department of Dermatology, Faculty of Medicine, Srinakharinwirot University, Bangkok, Thailand; 2Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, Faculty of Medicine Ramathibodi Hospital, Mahidol University, Bangkok, ThailandCorrespondence: Natthachat Jurairattanaporn, Division of Dermatology, Department of Medicine, Faculty of Medicine Ramathibodi Hospital, Mahidol University, 270 Rama VI Road, Ratchathewi, Bangkok, 10400, Thailand, Tel +66 2201 1141, Fax +66 2201 1211 Ext 4, Email [email protected]: For dermatologists, diversities of human races result in an opportunity to encounter patients with various skin types. Cosmetic procedures have gained more popularity and become more accessible over the past decades. Thus, the selection of appropriate treatment protocol for each patient becomes inevitable. This review will focus on basic knowledge and key points in performing safe cosmetic-related procedures in patients with dark-complexioned skin. In terms of structure and function of the skin, people of color have equal epidermal thickness, corneocyte size and melanocyte number. However, they have more stratum corneum compaction, melanosome dispersion and melanocyte activity than fair skin individuals. Data regarding drug penetration and cutaneous irritation showed conflicting results. Superficial chemical peels and microdermabrasion can be done safely in dark-skinned patients. Medium-depth peel should be used with extreme caution. While deep-depth peel should be avoided at all times due to pigmentary and textural complications. Prolonged treatment interval, use of priming agents and sun protection are recommended. Injectable materials including botulinum toxin and soft tissue augmentation by hyaluronic acid filler can be done harmlessly in dark-skinned patients. Lasers and energy-based devices should be done with caution. Higher melanin dispersion and melanocyte activity acts as competitive chromophore. Pigmentary or textural changes can occur after aggressive treatment protocol. High energy setting, pulse stacking, short wavelength lasers and short treatment interval should be avoided in dark-skinned patients.Keywords: complications, dark skin, energy-based devices, injectables, laser, skin of color
