Experience of Reconstruction of Yakut Women’s Clothing of the 17th-18th Centuries (based on the Materials of At-Daban (At-Byran) VI Burial)

Abstract

The experience of carrying out a hypothetical reconstruction of women's clothing "tangalai" XVII-XVIII centuries is considered. It is reported that this sample of clothing was found during archaeological research in 2016 in the area of At-Byran, Khangalassky district of the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). Earlier it was revealed that the tangalai was part of the bride’s costume, which means an indispensable element of the wedding ceremony. As a result of studies of the Yakut burials of the XVII-XVIII centuries, it was established that the tangalai was included in the complex of accompanying material during the funeral rite of a married woman. An analysis of ethnographic literature, the results of field scientific research, available visual sources was made, fragments of clothing stored in museums extracted from funerary monuments were studied. As the study showed, the tangalai from the At-Daban VI burial has similar features with samples of similar shoulder-clothes found and studied earlier: general principles of decor, color scheme, and peculiarities of the location of sewn jewelry. Distinctive features: a lowered waist line and narrow bibs were revealed. Based on a detailed study of the original source, masters of decorative and applied art carried out a hypothetical reconstruction of the tangalaya. Attention was paid to leather processing, seams, design features. Unsaved pieces of clothing were recreated using existing analogues.

Keywords

• yakuts
• costume
• ritual clothes
• jewelry
• reconstruction
• hypothetical reconstruction
• funerary monuments
• processing technology