Cosmetics (Dec 2022)
A <i>Cistus incanus</i> Extract Blocks Psychological Stress Signaling and Reduces Neurogenic Inflammation and Signs of Aging in Skin, as Shown in In-Vitro Models and a Randomized Clinical Trial
Abstract
Psychological stress exerts its effects mainly through the release of corticotropin releasing hormone (CRH), which activates inflammatory pathways in skin (inter alia), resulting in redness, extracellular matrix degradation, loss of skin elasticity and firmness, and the appearance of wrinkles—namely, accelerated skin aging. In order to propose a solution to this neurogenic aging phenomenon, we report here on studies using a myricitrin-rich extract of Cistus incanus, a Mediterranean shrub used in traditional medicine for the treatment of inflammatory and other diseases. These studies include a CRH receptor (CRH-R1) blocking assay; in vitro inflammatory cytokine reduction under CRH stimulation, and ex vivo NF-kB inhibition; and a double-blind clinical trial performed on highly stressed panelists, evaluating skin inflammation and wrinkling (active formulation vs. placebo control, applied split-face following a computer-generated randomization scheme; 36 subjects recruited and randomized, 30 analyzed; no adverse effects recorded; EMA/INFARMED registration #118505, internally funded). The results show that this extract can effectively block the CRH-R1 receptor, preventing NF-κB activation and the production of related pro-inflammatory cytokines. In a clinical setting, this same extract delivered significant anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects. Taken together, these results demonstrate the value of this extract as a cosmetic active to counter neurogenic inflammation and skin aging.
Keywords