On the Influence of Beach Slope on Wave Non-Linearities on a Macrotidal Low-Tide Terrace Beach

Abstract

This study examines the evolution of wave shapes as they propagate over a beach of varying morphology, information essential for understanding coastal dynamics and supporting coastal management. Our objective was to analyze the relationship between wave shape parameters and the local slope of the beach. To achieve this, we used data from pressure sensors and topographic measurements to evaluate the shape of waves on a cross-shore profile of a low-tide terrace beach. The analysis of wave conditions revealed a pronounced modulation of the tidal signal, which is augmented during storm events. Our findings demonstrate that the asymmetry and skewness parameters are more pronounced in the reflective zone of the beach. Considering these results, it can be concluded that the non-linearity of waves is significantly affected by the beach slope. The parameterization method employed in this study effectively incorporates this factor, offering improved accuracy in comparison to the existing approaches.

Keywords

• wave shape
• non-linearities
• beach slope
• macrotidal