Oceanologia (Dec 2001)

Wave-induced set-up and flow over shoals and coral reefs. Part 1. A simplified bottom geometry case

  • Stanis³aw R. Massel,
  • Richard M. Brinkman

Journal volume & issue
Vol. 43, no. 4
pp. 373 – 388

Abstract

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An analytical approach was used to model the wave-induced set-up and flow through simple shoal geometry when water depth is a linear function of the distance. Two different approaches were applied to parameterize the energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The resulting set-up height and flow velocity were determined and their dependence on the geometry of the shoal and offshore forcing was demonstrated. The extension of the solution to a more complicated bathymetry and verification against the experimental data will be given in the second part of the paper.

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