Modeling of the fat base of cosmetic creams

Abstract

The development of the formulation of cosmetic creams with a fat base, as a rule, is based on a rich practical experience, which has found expression in a number of generally accepted strategies. At the same time, the most difficult stage is the creation of a multicomponent mixture of oils with a balanced fatty acid composition, taking into account skin type, age-related changes, etc. An alternative to the empirical approach can be the creation of mathematical models of fat mixtures based on an unambiguous clear choice of criteria and restrictive conditions for the content of individual fatty acids. The relevance of such a task is due to the fact that the proposed models are quite complex and limited to a small set of components in the blend. The purpose of this study was to create a simplified model for calculating the fatty acid composition of multicomponent blends of vegetable oils using oil extracts of berries, fruits, essential oils and medicinal plants of the Crimean region enriched with BAS as a fat base. Oil extracts were obtained on the principle of two-phase extraction, which allows the extraction of biologically active substances of medium polarity. As a result of the research, a simplified strategy for mathematical modeling of the multicomponent composition of the fat base of oil creams is proposed, which allows to obtain the optimal ratio between base and active oils. At the same time, oils are selected both taking into account their physiological activity and fatty acid composition. A significant simplification is achieved through a preliminary analysis of the fatty acid composition of oils and the selection on its basis of such mixtures of oils, which later act as a single component. This allows the formation of multicomponent mixtures. The ratio of oleic and linoleic acids; the ratio of oleic to the sum of polyunsaturated acids (PUFA) were chosen as restrictive criteria. The results of this work can be useful when creating and testing mixtures using new unconventional oils.

Keywords

• vegetable oils
• cosmetic creams
• fat base of creams
• oil extract
• two-phase extraction
• oil combination strategy