Physico-Chemical Properties of Collagen Hydrolysates and Their Application in Skin Care Cosmetics

Abstract

Collagen is a biodegradable polymer with many beneficial properties, such as high biocompatibility with skin, excellent film-forming ability, antimicrobial and antioxidant actions, etc. It has received increasing attention in various research and practical fields for its potential applications. However, the use of collagen can be problematic due to its high molecular weight, which can be resolved by hydrolysis into smaller polypeptides. Efforts have also been made to find alternative sources of collagen and its hydrolysates. One such promising source is poultry by-products rich in type I collagen, the most important collagen for practical use. This article analyzes the physico-chemical properties of collagen hydrolysates isolated from the superficial soft tissues of chicken paws. The results obtained show that the use of Neutrase yields a hydrolysate that exhibits greater surface activity at the liquid-gas interface, enhanced wetting ability, and better adhesion to hydrophobic surfaces. Therefore, it can be recommended as a multifunctional ingredient for skin care cosmetics. A cream formula with collagen hydrolysate was developed. Cream is characterized as a multiple emulsion with a moisturizing effect.

Keywords

• proteins
• poultry products
• collagen hydrolysate
• enzymes
• viscosity
• isoelectric point
• surface tension
• wetting
• adhesion work
• emulsion