Observations of directional wave spectra in the Colombian Pacific

Abstract

Directional wave spectra in the Colombian Pacific have been observed systematically since 2009 by a network of four buoys owned by the Dirección General Marítima de Colombia. The data consist of estimates of the full 2D spectrum in frequency and direction obtained from the network of Triaxys wave sensors. This network is arranged along the Colombian Pacific coast at Tumaco, Gorgona, Buenaventura, and Solano locations. The buoys have been moored near the edge of the continental shelf, corresponding to water depths of about 130m. Complementary, wind data from nearby meteorological stations, and from the ECMWF model are available. In this study, the analysis emphasizes on parameters of the wave spectrum and on the different wave systems composing the local wave climate. From the analyzed data, four wave systems are clearly observed, two of them with Southwesterly origin and two with Northwesterly origin. The pairs of wave systems with similar directions are distinct because of their different typical peak frequencies, two around 0.07Hz and the other two around 0.16Hz. A fifth wave system is apparent from the data at very low frequencies and Southwesterly directions. However, its typical frequencies are near the lower cut-off limit of the instrument so the error associated to this system is difficult to assess. From the overall statistics we can say that typical wind and wave conditions in the region are found to range from low to moderate, with wave heights on the order of 1m, and wind speeds on the order of 3m/s. Specific meteorological and wave events however, may be of considerable magnitude, with wind speeds above the 10m/s, and wave heights above 2m. and mean wave periods above the 15s.

Keywords

• Océano Pacífico Colombiano
• boya Tryaxis
• espectro de oleaje
• clima de oleaje