From Traditional Knowledge to Modern Formulation: Potential and Prospects of <i>Pistacia atlantica</i> Desf. Essential and Fixed Oils Uses in Cosmetics

Abstract

Pistacia atlantica Desf. (Atlas pistachio) is one of the most widely distributed wild species of the genus. It is an Irano–Touranian species with a large geographic area that extends from the Canary Islands to Pamir Mountains. Since ancient times, atlas pistachio gum-like resin and fruits, very rich in essential oils (EOs) and fixed oils (FOs), respectively, were used in traditional medicine and included in different traditional cosmetics and health and beauty products. Since then, Atlas pistachio fixed oil is incorporated into several soaps, creams and shampoos to benefit from its medicinal properties. Atlas pistachio fixed oils, resin and leaf essential oils are constituted by several bioactive compounds such as monoterpenes with α-pinene and β-pinene in the resin, terpinen-4-ol, elemol, sesquiterpenes with D-germacrene and E-caryophyllene in the leaves and oxygenated monoterpenes (bornyl acetate) in the fruits. The unsaturated fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, palmitic and stearic acid), sterols (β-sitostero) and tocopherols represented the principal compounds in fatty oil fruits. All these compounds exhibit great therapeutic and cosmetic virtues. Unlike lentisk oil uses in cosmetology, the cosmetic potentials of Atlas pistachio oils remain less valued. In the current review, we seek to highlight the characteristics and properties of Atlas pistachio oils in the prospects of the development of new and different cosmetic formulations as well as an innovative valuation of active ingredients and products inspired by indigenous knowledge and practices.

Keywords

• <i>Pistacia atlantica</i> Desf.
• essential oils
• fixed oils
• cosmetic formulation
• indigenous knowledge