Acute Effect of Different Warm-up Methods on Isometric Muscle Endurance of the Finger Flexors and Climbing Performance in Sport Climbers

Abstract

PURPOSE The purpose of this study was to investigate whether foam roller, preexhaustion, and static stretching had any effect on isometric muscular endurance of the finger flexors and climbing performance in sport climbers. METHODS Nine sport climbers who were able to perform at a climbing difficulty of 5.11d, were included in this study. Warm-up exercise consisted of myofascial release, pre-exhaustion exercises, and static stretching. Grip and back strengths were measured for muscular strength, and isometric muscular endurance of the finger flexors was measured as the time spent hanging on each hold according to the angle of the elbow joint. Repeated measures of ANOVA were performed to confirm the difference in treatment, and a significant difference between groups was confirmed by contrast test. RESULTS Myofascial release, pre-exhaustion, and static stretching before climbing did not affect muscle strength. However, the static stretching exercise significantly decreased isometric muscle endurance of the finger flexor at 90° open hold, and the pre-exhaustion exercise significantly decreased the hanging time at 180° crimp and slope grips. There was no effect on climbing performance according to the type of warm-up exercise. CONCLUSIONS Our findings suggested that various warm-up exercises did not directly affect muscle strength, muscular endurance, and climbing performance in sport climbers. Thus, we suggest that future research on complex warm-up exercises considering climbing postures should be conducted.

Keywords

• sport climbing
• warm-up
• myofascial release
• pre-exhaustion
• static stretching