Peculiarities of regular waves in extremely shallow waters

Abstract

Object and purpose of research. This paper discusses regular wave propagation from deep water to shallow-water area, up to the shoreline. The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of shallow water upon wave height. Materials and methods. The study was performed in wave test tank. Wave parameters were measured by acoustic sensors. Main results. The study yielded the expression connecting relative wave height and relative water depth in the shallowwater area (up to the shoreline). It also enabled wave shape determination for various points of the shallow-water area and identified some unusual changes of wave shape in its initial part. Conclusion. This study could be helpful in design of hydraulic structures and movement studies of various marine objects in shallow-water coastal areas.

Keywords

• regular waves
• shallow-water
• shoreline
• wave shape
• wave height
• water depth.