Design and Characterization of an Ethosomal Gel Encapsulating Rosehip Extract
Valentina Sallustio,
Giovanna Farruggia,
Massimiliano Pio di Cagno,
Martina M. Tzanova,
Joana Marto,
Helena Ribeiro,
Lidia Maria Goncalves,
Manuela Mandrone,
Ilaria Chiocchio,
Teresa Cerchiara,
Angela Abruzzo,
Federica Bigucci,
Barbara Luppi
Affiliations
Valentina Sallustio
Drug Delivery Research Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via San Donato 19/2, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Giovanna Farruggia
Pharmaceutical Biochemistry Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via San Donato 19/2, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Massimiliano Pio di Cagno
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, University of Oslo, Sem Saelands vei 3, 0371 Oslo, Norway
Martina M. Tzanova
Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences, University of Oslo, Sem Saelands vei 3, 0371 Oslo, Norway
Joana Marto
Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-038 Lisboa, Portugal
Helena Ribeiro
Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-038 Lisboa, Portugal
Lidia Maria Goncalves
Research Institute for Medicines (iMed.ULisboa), Faculty of Pharmacy, Universidade de Lisboa, Avenida Professor Gama Pinto, 1649-038 Lisboa, Portugal
Manuela Mandrone
Pharmaceutical Botany Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via Irnerio 42, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Ilaria Chiocchio
Pharmaceutical Botany Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via Irnerio 42, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Teresa Cerchiara
Drug Delivery Research Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via San Donato 19/2, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Angela Abruzzo
Drug Delivery Research Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via San Donato 19/2, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Federica Bigucci
Drug Delivery Research Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via San Donato 19/2, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Barbara Luppi
Drug Delivery Research Laboratory, Department of Pharmacy and Biotechnology, Alma Mater Studiorum, University of Bologna, Via San Donato 19/2, 40127 Bologna, Italy
Rising environmental awareness drives green consumers to purchase sustainable cosmetics based on natural bioactive compounds. The aim of this study was to deliver Rosa canina L. extract as a botanical ingredient in an anti-aging gel using an eco-friendly approach. Rosehip extract was first characterized in terms of its antioxidant activity through a DPPH assay and ROS reduction test and then encapsulated in ethosomal vesicles with different percentages of ethanol. All formulations were characterized in terms of size, polydispersity, zeta potential, and entrapment efficiency. Release and skin penetration/permeation data were obtained through in vitro studies, and cell viability was assessed using an MTT assay on WS1 fibroblasts. Finally, ethosomes were incorporated in hyaluronic gels (1% or 2% w/v) to facilitate skin application, and rheological properties were studied. Rosehip extract (1 mg/mL) revealed a high antioxidant activity and was successfully encapsulated in ethosomes containing 30% ethanol, having small sizes (225.4 ± 7.0 nm), low polydispersity (0.26 ± 0.02), and good entrapment efficiency (93.41 ± 5.30%). This formulation incorporated in a hyaluronic gel 1% w/v showed an optimal pH for skin application (5.6 ± 0.2), good spreadability, and stability over 60 days at 4 °C. Considering sustainable ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing technology, the ethosomal gel of rosehip extract could be an innovative and green anti-aging skincare product.
