Expert Systems for Predicting the Bioavailability of Sun Filters in Cosmetic Products, Software vs. Expert Formulator: The Benzophenone-3 Case
Anna Baldisserotto,
Erika Baldini,
Sara Ravarotto,
Elena Cesa,
Daniela De Lucia,
Elisa Durini,
Silvia Vertuani,
Stefano Manfredini,
Bozena B. Michniak-Kohn
Affiliations
Anna Baldisserotto
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Section of Medicinal and Health Products, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
Erika Baldini
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Section of Medicinal and Health Products, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
Sara Ravarotto
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44124 Ferrara, Italy
Elena Cesa
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Section of Medicinal and Health Products, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
Daniela De Lucia
DLD Scientific LLC, United State Corporation Agent, Inc., Pine Brook, NJ 07058, USA
Elisa Durini
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Section of Medicinal and Health Products, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
Silvia Vertuani
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Section of Medicinal and Health Products, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
Stefano Manfredini
Department of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Section of Medicinal and Health Products, University of Ferrara, Via Fossato di Mortara 17-19, 44121 Ferrara, Italy
Bozena B. Michniak-Kohn
Center for Dermal Research (CDR) & Laboratory for Drug Delivery (LDD) Life Sciences Building, Rutgers—The State University of New Jersey, 145 Bevier Road, Piscataway, NJ 08854, USA
There are only a limited number of molecules in a cosmetic formulation, which can passively cross the stratum corneum and be absorbed into the skin layers. However, some actives should never cross the skin in large concentrations due to their potential for side effects, for example, sunscreens. Artificial intelligence is gaining an increasing role as a predictive tool, and in this regard, we selected the Formulating for Efficacy® Software to forecast the changes in bioavailability of selected topical cosmetic compounds. Using the Franz diffusion cell methodology, various oils were selected as those with low release capability, and these were compared to those suggested by the software in Benzophenone-3-containing formulations. The software was able to predict the lipophilic phases, which, if utilized in the emulsion, were stable and sometimes even more pleasant in appearance and consistency than the reference emulsions prepared by the formulator. To date, however, Formulating for Efficacy® Software still has limitations as far as predicting the hydrophilic phase, as well as not being able to choose the emulsifier or the preservative system.