Dynamics of Sandy Shorelines and Their Response to Wave Climate Change in the East of Hainan Island, China

Abstract

Beach erosion and shoreline dynamics are strongly affected by alterations in nearshore wave intensity and energy, especially in the context of global climate change. However, existing works do not thoroughly study the evolution of the sandy coasts of eastern Hainan Island, China, nor their responses to wave climate change driven by climate variability. This study focuses on the open sandy coast and assesses shoreline evolutionary dynamics in response to wave climate variability over a 30-year period from 1994 to 2023, using an open-source software toolkit that semi-automatically identify the shorelines (CoastSat v2.4) and reanalysis wave datasets (ERA5). The shorelines of the study area were extracted from CoastSat, and then tidal correction and outlier correction were performed for clearer shorelines. Combining the shoreline changes and wave conditions derived from ERA5, the dynamics of the shorelines and their response to wave climate change were further studied. The findings reveal that the average long-term shoreline change rate along the eastern coast of Hainan Island is 0.03 m/year, with 44.8% of transects experiencing erosion and 55.2% showing long-term accretion. And distinct evolutionary patterns emerge across different sections. Interannual variability is marked by alternating erosion and siltation cycles, while most sections of the coast experiences clear seasonal fluctuations, with accretion typically occurring during summer and erosion occurring in winter. El Niño–Southern Oscillation (ENSO) cycles drive changes in parameters including significant wave height, mean wave period, wave energy flux, and mean wave direction, leading to long-term changes in wave climate. The multi-scale behavior of the sandy shoreline responds distinctly to the ongoing changes in wave climate triggered by ENSO viability, with El Niño events typically resulting in accretion and La Niña periods causing erosion. Notably, mean wave direction is the metric most closely linked to changes in the shoreline among all the others. In conclusion, the interplay of escalating anthropogenic activities, natural processes, and climate change contributes to the long-term evolution of sandy shorelines. We believe this study can offer a scientific reference for erosion prevention and management strategies of sandy beaches, based on the analysis presented above.

Keywords

• sandy coast
• shoreline dynamics
• CoastSat
• wave climate
• ENSO