Acai Oil-Based Organogel Containing Hyaluronic Acid for Topical Cosmetic: In Vitro and Ex Vivo Assessment

Abstract

Organogels are semi-solid pharmaceutical forms whose dispersing phase is an organic liquid, for example, an oil, such as acai oil, immobilized by a three-dimensional network formed by the gelling agent. Organogels are being highlighted as innovative release systems for cosmetic active ingredients such as hyaluronic acid for topical applications. Acai oil was evaluated for its physicochemical parameters, fatty acid composition, lipid quality index, spectroscopic pattern (Attenuated total reflectance Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy), thermal behavior, total phenolic, total flavonoids, and total carotenoids and β-carotene content. The effectiveness of the organogel incorporated with hyaluronic acid (OG + HA) was evaluated through ex vivo permeation and skin retention tests, in vitro tests by Attenuated total reflectance Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy and Differential Scanning Calorimetry. The physicochemical analyses highlighted that the acai oil exhibited quality standards in agreement with the regulatory bodies. Acai oil also showed high antioxidant capacity, which was correlated with the identified bioactive compounds. The cytotoxicity tests demonstrated that the formulation OG + HA does not release toxic substances into the biological environment that could impede cell growth, adhesion, and efficacy. In vitro and ex vivo analyses demonstrated that after 6 h of application, OG + HA presented a high level of hydration, thermal protection and release of HA. Thus, it can be concluded that the OG + HA formulation has the potential for physical–chemical applications, antioxidant quality, and potentially promising efficacy for application in the cosmetic areas.

Keywords

• acai oil
• 12-hydroxystearic acid
• hyaluronic acid
• organogel
• topical cosmetic