Zhongguo youzhi (Feb 2023)
4种高亚油酸型油脂的光防护效应Photoprotection effect of four high linoleic acid oils
Abstract
为了解决当前紫外线吸收剂与活性成分复配应用于体系时，存在刺激性、溶解性、光稳定性方面的问题，通过鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜实验、防晒增效性实验、自由基清除实验研究4种高亚油酸型油脂米糠油、红花籽油、小麦胚芽油和芝麻油的安全性、紫外吸收性、防晒增效性、抗氧化性。结果表明：米糠油、红花籽油、小麦胚芽油和芝麻油安全性高，可应用于光防护类特殊用途化妆品；4种油脂与长波紫外线吸收剂二乙基氨基羟基苯甲酰苯甲酸己酯（APLUS）、中波紫外线吸收剂甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯（OMC）及广谱紫外线吸收剂奥克立林相溶性佳，25 ℃放置28 d后未出现溶解性问题；芝麻油与APLUS复配时，长波紫外线吸收增幅比例最高，为17.81%；与OMC复配时，米糠油作为溶剂对于中波紫外线吸收增幅比例最高，可达28.83%；奥克立林复配红花籽油时，全波段紫外线吸收增幅比例最大，达到45.77%；4种高亚油酸型油脂都能有效减缓OMC光降解的速率，其中芝麻油与OMC的复配体系在光照9 h后辐照损失率最小，为2.88%；4种高亚油酸型油脂都具有一定的DPPH自由基及羟自由基清除能力，其中米糠油DPPH自由基清除率最高，EC50值为0.036 49 g/mL，小麦胚芽油羟自由基清除率最高，EC50值为0.053 36 g/mL。米糠油、红花籽油、小麦胚芽油和芝麻油不仅可作为化妆品中一种基质原料，同时由于其安全性、防晒增效性和抗氧化性，可应用于产品中以进一步提高产品的光防护性能。 In order to solve the current problems of irritation, solubility and light stability when the ultraviolet（UV） absorber and active ingredients were compounded in the system, the safety, UV absorption, sunscreen synergism and antioxidation properties of four high linoleic acid oils (rice bran oil, safflower seed oil, wheat germ oil and sesame oil) were investigated through chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane test, sunscreen potentiation and free radical scavenging test. The results showed that rice bran oil, safflower seed oil, wheat germ oil and sesame oil were highly safe and could be used in photoprotection special purpose cosmetics. The four oils had good solubility with long wave UV absorber diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexylbenzoate (APLUS), medium wave UV absorber methoxyethyl hexyl cinnamate (OMC) and broad-spectrum UV absorber aucylin, and there was no stability problem after being stored at 25 ℃ for 28 d. When sesame oil was mixed with APLUS, the increase rate of long wave UV absorption was the highest, which could increased by 17.81%. When compounded with OMC, rice bran oil as solvent had the highest increase rate of medium wave UV absorption, which was 28.83%. When aucylin was compounded with safflower seed oil, the increase rate of absorption of full band UV radiation reached the maximum, which was 45.77%.The four high linoleic acid oils could effectively slow down the rate of OMC photodegradation, and the compound system of sesame oil and OMC had the lowest irradiation loss rate of 2.88% after 9 h of light irradiation.The four high linoleic acid oils had certain DPPH and hydroxyl radical scavenging ability, among which rice bran oil had the highest DPPH radical scavenging rate with EC50 value of 0.036 49 g/mL, and wheat germ oil had the highest hydroxyl radical scavenging rate with EC50 value of 0.053 36 g/mL. Therefore, rice bran oil, safflower seed oil, wheat germ oil and sesame oil not only can be used as a base material in cosmetics, but also can be used in products to further improve their photoprotection properties due to their safety, sunscreen potentiation and antioxidant properties.
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