Cosmetics (Feb 2021)

<i>In Vitro</i> Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by <i>Fagraea berteroana,</i> a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)

  • Kristelle Hughes,
  • Raimana Ho,
  • Claire Chazaud,
  • Stéphanie Hermitte,
  • Stéphane Greff,
  • Jean-François Butaud,
  • Edith Filaire,
  • Edwige Ranouille,
  • Jean-Yves Berthon,
  • Phila Raharivelomanana

DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8010013
Journal volume & issue
Vol. 8, no. 1
p. 13

Abstract

Read online

Fagraea berteroana is a tree used in traditional medicine in various islands of the South Pacific. Here, we studied its hair growth-inducing properties as suggested by one of its Marquesan ethno-uses in haircare. The ethyl acetate extract of the fruits of F. berteroana (FEAE) and four resulting fractions (FEAE-F0, FEAE-F1, FEAE-F2, and FEAE-F3) were tested on hair follicle dermal papilla cells to determine their cell proliferative activity. Furthermore, RT-qPCR analysis enabled gene modulation analysis, while immunostaining of the β-catenin protein was used to follow protein regulation. We found that the plant extracts induced a controlled, dose-dependent cell proliferation. FEAE-F0 simultaneously down-regulated Bone Morphogenetic Protein 2 (BMP2) mRNA expression and upregulated Cyclin-D1 (CCND1) gene expression, which suggests an involvement in the regulation of the Wnt and Transforming Growth Factor beta (TGFβ) pathways that control the hair cycle. FEAE-F0 exhibited a 1.34-fold increase of nuclear β-catenin protein. This is indicative of an active hair growth state. Thus, we conclude that FEAE-F0 could be an innovative candidate in hair care, which opens interesting leads to promote the Marquesan cosmetopoeia.

Keywords