On Their Own Skin. To be dressed “like animals” against dressing “with animals”, from representation to performance

Abstract

This paper will focus on the contrast between dressing “like animals" versus wearing animals”, that is, between the dimension of animal exploitation for clothing and, on the contrary, the vision of non-human beings as teachers capable of indicating new dimensions and new contents or capable of transforming us in the deep. The inspiring role of animals is read following the zooanthropological perspective- developed in Italy by Roberto Marchesini- and the political point of view of the Critical Animal Studies. With respect to animal exploitation in fashion, a historical introduction is outlined on the birth of antispeciesist struggles against skins and furs, from the American PETA to the Italian LAV and Essere Animali.Then will follow a brief examination of materials of animal origin, from crocodile skins to wool and related investigations and reports of abuse by animal rights associations. The opposite polarities of exploitation and the epiphanic role of non-humans are exemplified by the articulation of images in fashion and by the zoomimetic performances of anti-speciesists with particular reference to the use of animal costumes in demonstrations. Then will follow a brief examination of materials of animal origin, from crocodile skins to wool and related investigations and reports of abuse by associations themselves.

Keywords

• animal exploitation
• antispeciesism
• animal-fur
• performance
• zooanthropology