Evaluation of Anti-Photoaging Effects of a Novel Cosmeceutical Containing a Retinoids Mixture Using In Vitro Cell Models

Abstract

Physiological ageing due to the passing of time and prolonged exposure to harmful sun rays generate wrinkles and reduce skin elasticity. These visible and clinical signs can be prevented or reversed by known strategies, such as the daily use of cosmetic products with antioxidant combinations or retinoids. A new dermocosmetic formulation enriched with a complex of retinoids, called RETINOIDS SERUM, was investigated through in vitro assays using human skin cells. The experiments were carried out to assess the anti-ageing activity in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). After the preliminary MTT assay, the proliferation together with the synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers was performed on NHDF cells after 24 h treatment with the two non-cytotoxic concentrations. Using UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, the measurement of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) levels was also investigated. In vitro studies show that the dermocosmetic product improves collagen and elastin synthesis and the renewal of dermal fibroblasts. Moreover, a reduction in the MMP-1 secretion was also highlighted in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. These results suggest that the cosmetic formulation containing functional compounds such as retinoids can be useful to prevent the natural sign of ageing.

Keywords

• cell culture
• claim substantiation
• formulation
• skin ageing
• retinoids
• photoprotection