Components of Mid-Nineteenth- and Mid-Twentieth-Century Cudbears

Abstract

Analysis of purple dyestuff from a tin labeled “1 oz. Cudbear, No. 1 N. F. Powdered”, marketed by the American business S. B. Penick & Company, “Manufacturers of fine drugs and chemicals”, confirmed that the material was indeed a lichen dyestuff. It contains the same major orcein components identified in several other lichen dyes and dyed samples dating from the mid-19th century to today. These dyestuffs were analyzed using several analytical techniques. Fluorescence and fiber optic reflectance spectroscopic data for all the samples were similar. High performance liquid chromatography with diode array detection coupled to mass spectrometry confirmed that this commercial American cudbear was very similar to the samples from the United Kingdom but rather different from the archil-dyed reference yarns from Europe. The significance of the observations is discussed, and chemical structures are proposed for several of the unknown dye components detected in this study.

Keywords

• lichen dyes
• HPLC–DAD–MS
• UV/Vis spectroscopy
• fluorescence spectroscopy
• historic sample book