Micellar and Solvent Loan Chemical Extraction as a Tool for the Development of Natural Skin Care Cosmetics Containing Substances Isolated from Grapevine Buds

Abstract

The present study aimed to evaluate the possibility of using micellar and solvent loan chemical extraction (LCE) to isolate valuable components from grapevine leaf buds, subsequently utilizing them to prepare functional and safe-to-use cosmetic preparations, specifically facial serums. An aqueous solution of polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate and polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate was employed for a micellar LCE, while an aqueous solution of 1,3-propanediol was used for a solvent LCE. Importantly, the extraction medium was exclusively comprised of components from the designed final cosmetic product. Consequently, no additional substances were present in the cosmetics developed, and the formulation was notably enhanced by compounds extracted from grapevine buds. The antioxidant properties and compound characterization of the obtained micellar (SurfE) and solvent (SolvE) extracts based on grapevine buds were tested and compared. UPLC-MS/MS results indicated that the extracts were rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds, exhibiting antioxidant activity as measured using the DPPH and ABTS scavenging ability. The extracts were used to prepare model facial serums, which underwent evaluation based on fundamental functionality-related parameters (e.g., rheological characteristics and color) and their impact on the skin through cytotoxicity assessment. The results demonstrated that facial serums with extracts based on grapevine buds provided safe, natural cosmetics.

Keywords

• loan chemical extraction
• cosmetics
• grapevine bud extracts